On to Guadeloupe

11/16/2010

The winds calmed at midnight and the captain was hoping for a calmer sea with the north east winds behind us for the push down to Guadeloupe from Montserrat.

But a trough decided to stall over St. Lucia, and instead we found ourselves in the midst of a cold front pushing its way south.

Did I mention we were glad to have additional crew onboard? A long, dark, and extremely lumpy night, the Captain earned an extra rum ration for his night on the helm.

At dawn the sight of the misty hills of Guadeloupe was a welcome sight.

Too keyed up for sleep we anchored off the picturesque town of Deshaies on the northwest side of the island. Another French island yet more tropical and lush than St. Marten, the crew headed in for baguettes, Corsair beer and freshly roasted legs of mutton, a local delicacy.

The French have so simplified the process of customs and check in that a visit to the local internet café was all that was required.

I am starting to seriously rethink my previous views on Napoleon and have a new appreciation for his emphasis on administrative simplification!

A night of rest gave us new energy for the am departure down the west coast. Our destination was Pigeon Island and the Cousteau Underwater Park.

A great place for snorkeling or diving, and no fishing allowed. The anchorage on the mainland was pristine and you could see the bottom at thirty feet.

First we snorkeled the north west wall of the mainland before heading out to the tourist entrenched island surrounded by tour and dive boats. Gorgeous tube sponge, energetic blue tangs, some camouflaged flounder, jelly like anemone, and a loggerhead turtle were some of our sightings.

Yet another night departure at 3 am so as to put us at the southern most tip of the island at dawn. A crossing to Les Saintes required morning light for fish trap watch and hopefully calm seas before the afternoon trade winds. Only six miles the Starship crossed on an early morning squall that drove us into a sheltered bay as soon as we rounded the island. But soon the skies cleared, the sunshine appeared and we motored to the main town of Bourg des Saintes.

A quaint and picturesque fishing village, motor scooters and European backpackers were the norm. Filled with shops, French restaurants, patisserie, and colorful fishing boats, strolling and meandering took precedence.

Oh and I think we were out of rum and baguettes too!

Colorful Gallic charm abounded with the requisite brightly colored doors and fishing boats.

Unfortunately the weather window was closing and forced a quick trip to customs for clearance papers. On to Dominica!

Wow, seven countries in seven days, a new record for this vessel! Maybe we should change the name to Carnival Cruise Starship?

Trolling to Montserrat

11/15/2010

A favorable weather report to Montserrat hurried us on our way and we were delighted to have sunny skies, albeit heavier wind and seas than forecasted. 

 Ken quickly settled into a sitting fishing position so as to be one with the roll of the boat and maximize his fishing efforts.

 After a few hours hooking something large and brilliantly colored,

Diane had to assist with hauling in this Dorado. Under sail and unable to slow down, the fight was on.

Lucky for us the Canadians won and fresh fish was once again on the menu.

Montserrat is a contrast of terrain, the north being lush and green, and the south dominated by the Soufries Hills volcano, active and usually smoking.

Not heavily visited by the cruising community as the only anchorage is on the northwest side and open to the northerly swell. 

In 1995 the volcano erupted destroying the capital and forcing over half of the 11,000 population to relocate. Now a mere 4500 people make their way on this harsh yet supposedly beautiful spot, completely dependant on the British government for survival.

With the anchorage openly exposed to the north swell and no place to easily land the dingy the only inviting activity seemed to be sleep. After our long and tiring yet bountiful passage we rolled into our bunks after some melt in your mouth barbequed Mahi-Mahi. 

Charlestown, Nevis

11/14/2010

Flat seas, calm winds, southeast and downwind led us to St. Kitts and Nevis, considered one country and formerly British and NO baguettes.

Rounding the misty St. Kitts peaks, this island chain is known to be part of the “Islands That Brush the Clouds”. (Chris Doyle!)

We continued south to anchor off the historical town of Charlestown, Nevis for a short visit as well as to clear in with customs, the port authority, the police, and immigration. Rum shops, fresh passion fruit, conch and saltfish pasties.....yummm!

Nevis peak is 3000ft high and the island was formerly a colonial society of plantations.

Now drawing mainly on tourism with a population of 12,000, the architectural heritage has been preserved and the tours range from historical plantation tours, hiking and forest trails, or bird watching.

In addition to its world class plantation resorts Nevis was also known as the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton in 1757.

Complete with the restored Hamilton House on the quay and museum, they also offer wifi which you can enjoy in the garden cafe next door. 

Planning only a one day stop, taking an inland tour was a must so a local taxi driver was secured to show us the sites. 

We headed off to the area known as Gingerland, on the southside of the mountain. Because of its elevation it is cool and breezy, affording beautiful views of the surrounding islands.

Numerous historic plantations have been restored and refurbished into luxury resorts and spas, surrounded by manicured tropical gardens and million dollar views. This one is called Golden Rock Estates situated on 96 acres of lush tropical forest.

On this incredibly clear day from the dining terrace we could spy the distant volcanic island of Montserrat, our next destination.

Circumnavigating the island, the windward side seemed rather desolate and dry, and a stop at a local rum shop was in order.

This pristine but windy and private palm-dotted beach was part of another plantation/resort on our route belonging to the widow Fanny Nesbit, future wife of British navel icon Lord Horatio Nelson.

While Diane and I strolled down to the beach, Don and Ken, alias Arthur Ashe and Jimmy Connors, took up a quick and entertaining game of tennis so as to “feel” the moment.

Our daytrip finally dropped us back to the northwest side, calm and sheltered from the trade winds. A quick stop at the oldest church and cemetery in Nevis, circa 1642, and with the island of St. Kitts in the background, it seemed some lucky early settlers had picked the ideal eternal resting spot.

Ile Fourchue and Anse de Colombier, St. Barts

11/12/2010

Paradise has a few hitches and all that brie, baguette, and French wine was too heavenly to give up.

Fate must have known Don and I weren’t ready to leave as our windless refused to move and the Starship was forced to stay in St. Martin three more weeks while Don had a new housing fashioned at a local welding shop.

This turned out to be much cheaper than having a new one flown in, shipping costs, duty, etc….thus enabling more gluttony while we waited for the part to be fashioned.

But now there are no more excuses, the weather is clear post Hurricane Tomas for heading south and some glorious skies.

Our good friends Ken and Diane off Annie II from Canada are joining us for a few weeks for the trip to St. Lucia where they have retired and are building a vacation villa on the south east shore, surrounded by ocean views and tropical living.

Don and I are happy to have the company and extra crew for these next few passages to weather.

Our first stop is the dry and rocky day anchorage of Ile Fourche, St. Barts. Only 12 miles from St. Martin and part of the national park system, clear water for swimming but not much in the way of sea creatures.

Still it felt wonderful to get wet and see the sandy bottom once again after all the rain and wind of Tomas.

Ken being the onboard hunter gatherer had the fishing pole in the water and hand lines dragging as soon as we were clear of the park boundaries.

A monster barracuda and a snapper agreeably got hooked before the next marine reserve at Anse de Colombier, only four miles away.

Anse de Colombier, accessible only by boat and a formerly owned by the Rockefellers proved to be a perfect spot for a little more swimming (shark?) and an excellent Snapper Vera Cruz.

OTB time (ocean to belly)……three hours!