Dinner in Las Aves

Two days of a strong frontal system and bird watching left all aboard ready for a new front porch view. Around the corner from the mangrove aviary was another protected bay with a local fishing boat and onshore fish camp. 
Picking up anchor and a quick relocation left us closer to the possibility of fresh fish and a new beach to explore.

These colorful Venezuelan fishing and trade boats are very familiar to Don and I. Frequenting the Caribbean island chain and the coasts of Colombia and Eastern Panama, they bring dry goods, fresh produce, excellent coffee and fuel as well as fresh fish. In our experience local fishermen are always friendly and willing to trade for rum or other supplies, happy to meet people from foreign places and talk story.

Quick with a wave and a smile at our approach these hard-working fishermen pulled in their nets full of baitfish for tomorrow's workday and headed over for a chat.

As we hadn't seen any lobster on the reefs, we inquired as to possibilities. 

Two huge and colorful parrotfish were displayed and even though we were assured they were excellent fare, we had to say no. 
Too beautiful underwater to eat as far as I was concerned.

However the fishermen promised that lobster was possible and they eagerly returned later in the day to negotiate.

After some haggling and struggling to remember our rusty Spanish, a paper and pencil helped to determine the exchange rate for Venezuelan dollars and a deal was made.

A little rum, a few cigarettes and some cash provided the crew with a mouth watering meal as well as a delightful cultural exchange. 

Dinner is served!!!

Shore exploration was next on our list. 

On this desolate island these fishermen live and camp for three months at a time, returning to Caracus on the mainland for a month and then back out again. 

Living a hard yet simple life, surrounded by nature's bounty, friendly, cheerful, and always ready for a rum, the fishermen Don and I have been lucky enough to encounter never disappoint.

Las Aves, Venezuela

Las Aves was our next stop on the westward march to Bonaire. Named for the many birds that reside here Las Aves is another coral island with sparse vegetation and mangrove bays ringed by outer reef. 
Chase, an avid fisherman, headed out in the kayak, fly rod in hand hoping to catch some bait or dinner.

Can we eat this???

After determining that Needlefish are indeed edible, grilled with some lemon butter this prime catch made  a tasty appetizer.

Hundreds of birds make these islands their home, with boobies being the predominate species. 
Red-footed, browns with blue bills, and many nests of fluffy chicks high in the mangroves, it was a challenge getting close enough for a picture and yet staying far out of bulls-eye reach.

Flamingos!!!!!

With a brisk windy front passing by we were glad to be tucked in behind the protection of the outer reefs and low mangroves. A spectacular surprise came flying by, fighting the wind and heading out over the reef to somewhere. 

Pink seemed to be the color of the day and dusk brought pink skies with clouds of high flying  frigate birds. Las Aves was rightly named.

Kiteboarding in Paradise

After two days of exploring the beaches and reefs of Los Roques, the crew was ready to fly the kites. 


All snowboarders and always willing to try new things, even though the wind speeds were not ideal, the dudes were ready for the next adrenaline rush.

We were lucky enough to have this beautiful anchorage to ourselves for two days and then were joined by a French boat also here for kiteboarding.


Zig-zagging to miss eachother, the boats, and the reef takes skill and patience, and the chase dingy was very busy. But finally Shawn caught the upwind swing and our spectator sporting paid off!

Los Roques, being a coral atoll and short on vegetation and shade, luckily had one lone coconut palm tree. 


At the captain's orders "Boys we need coconuts for our rum!"

Through the scrub grass, thorns and burrs, they dutifully trekked. 


Where there is a will there is a way, and thank goodness for boat hooks and tall friends.

We have found that extracting coconut milk from a fresh coconut with a machete takes skill, practice and a genetic propensity. Not to mention it makes a HUGE mess. 


The Starship answer to all things... power tools.




Thanks to our excellent crew we eat and drink very well on this old boat.

Islas Los Roques, Venezuela

Land Ho!!!! Los Roques.
The looming rocks of Grand Roque appeared on the horizon early morning of our second day of downwinding. Los Roques is located 50 miles north of the Venezuelan coast, on a direct rum line from Grenada to Bonaire.


Unfortunately visiting mainland Venezuela has become less cruiser friendly and safe, with most sailboats now heading directly to Bonaire from Grenada, not stopping to visit the many tropical islands off the north coast.

We elected to stop at the magnificent islands of Los Roques, a Venezuelan  national park, remote and uninhabited except for weekenders from the mainland and local fisherman.


Taking one sail down and ghosting along so as to make a noon arrival for reef patrol, all were in awe of the incredible colors of water and sand.

Shore exploration was immediately necessary by one and all.


Without a doubt the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen.

So much texture and contrasts between the water and shore, land and sky, Los Roques are a geologist's dream.  


Made of fossilized coral and sparse cacti vegetation (with thorns!), and a few salt marches, who would have thought Paradise would be so dry?


My Tribute to Tim Burton.

Below the water the sights were equally as beautiful in the crystal clear water.


Incredible brain coral formations, staghorn coral forests, jellyfish, bait fish, and one lone migrating conch shell.

Los Roques ......Paradise indeed.

Bonaire or Bust

Underway from Grenada!!!! 


Don and I are happy to be on the move once again with a newly painted bottom, most repair jobs completed, and a fantastic crew of four California snowboarders looking for adventure. 

Shawn has joined us once again for our journey west to Bonaire and points intermedio. Accompanying him are three friends from the cold and wet lands of Lake Tahoe, Chase, Dylan, and Nicholas. Ready to work on their tans, sample the local beer, fish and have fun! 

Downwind and heading west, light winds and hot, we had three sails up. and all fishing lines out.  


Reggae on the player, cold beer on ice.....
and NO autopilot????  


With a two day sail ahead of us to our first destination, roughly 305 miles, it made us extremely grateful to have so many eager and extra hands onboard. 

A great sail and hot....the boys decided to "shoot the floats" and hopefully lure some fish onto our empty lines.  Sailing at 7-9 knots most of the way in a 6 foot sea, Starship at her best.

Goodbye Grenada

Finally our time here on the beautiful island of Grenada is nearing an end. A year spent enjoying the beautiful scenery, friendly people, abundant fresh food, and laid back culture has been a year well spent but it is time for new horizons. Our daughter Darci has come for a visit before we head offshore once again and we did some quick island touring.

The views from  Fort George with cannons still in place never cease to astound us, and the inner harbor, known as the Carnage, is a busy main port of the southern Caribbean. Imports from Trinidad, Venezuela, and St. Vincent, tourists on cruise ships and private yachts, as well as local smaller interisland ferries makes this tiny harbor a bustling hub. Grenada’s largest export is all her many locally grown and world renown spices. Nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, turmeric, ginger, cloves, thyme, and bay leaves all sold fresh in the local markets. The local combination of bay leaves, thyme, coconut milk, and peppers has become one of Don’s favorites and is now a staple on the galley menu.

The weather is sweltering and humid as we approach the spring equinox when the sun will be on the equator and the temperatures are starting to rise. This reminds us to give a shout out to our friend Joe, owner of Yosemite Ridge Resort, and makes us wonder if there is any snow at home. Suddenly it sounds very, very inviting. Get your reservations for one of their fabulous cabins or campsites right near the entrance to Yosemite National Park, they are filling up fast!

 As our departure from Grenada looms we take a stroll through the city central. Built on numerous steep hills, this city is good for the legs as well as the eyes. 

The produce market, the crisply uniformed children, British and French influenced architecture spiced with Caribbean color, and a little bit of Ital influence all set against the ever present backdrop of cruise ships are just a few of our favorite impressions of this spectacular island. 

I think Don is going to miss his daily dose of fresh sour sop the most. Sour sop is a fruit prickly and green on the outside and slimy and white on the inside with seeds that can break a crown if you are not careful. 

Don has first hand experience at this. Fortunately he was able to get a new crown placed by a young dentist from Venezuela who spends two weeks a month on the island of Grenada. She hand carried his tooth molds with her on the plane to Venezuela, had them cast, and then brought them back for placement. Midprocedure the air/water compressor that supplies the entire dentist office broke and the apologetic dentist tried to reschedule. Don, his mouth numb and bib flapping, replied “Let me look at it.” Analyzing that the compressor was beyond repair, the spare compressor was wheeled in, but in an office where all the employees were female no tools could be found. Don and the lady dentist hiked to the local hardware store a block away, the requisite tool was purchased and Don proceeded to put the dentist’s office back in business. So now the sour sop he so dearly loves and still eats almost daily will always bring to mind a lovely lady dentist and a reminder of the many healthcare adventures abroad we have had which always seem to turn out right.

Grenada we will miss you!