Friday, July 27, 2012

Last Days in Paradise


Our time in the San Blas is drawing to a close for now as Don and I  prepare for our visit back to see family and friends up north. One thing that has really struck us on this visit as compared to ten years ago is the increased number of tourists, tourist boats, and eco-lodges here in the San Blas. With the improvement of the Carti road it is now possible to almost day trip to the islands where as it use to be only accessible by boat or small plane. Previously molas were the mainstay in years past, now tourism has taken a hold and we can only wonder what that will do to this already fragile environment. 













San Blas Islands of Panama......a beautiful place, a simple way of life.

Monday, July 2, 2012

The City of Carti









Unfortunately it is time for our guests to return to the land of plenty and the Starship headed for the Carti Island group. For their return trip John and Karen elected to take the steep and winding Carti road back to Panama City rather than a plane and we have heard it is much easier than in years past although still by 4-wheel drive and at least a three hour trip.




The main island village of Carti is Sugdup and we anchored for the night in a somewhat questionable open roadstead off the main dock. Typical of the larger San Blas villages, every build-able space on Sugdup is used and the buildings and huts are very close together, alleyways and walkways narrow and somewhat askew. But there is always room for one more satellite dish.




Shopping for molas was a priority as Karen had not yet had the opportunity and we walked the whole village to see what was available before buying. Molas are the traditional Kuna handicraft, hand-stitched of multi-layered cotton by the women of this once primarily matriarchal society. Traditionally women of the Kuna Yala sported elaborate tattoos similar to some Polynesian societies. But with the introduction of textiles from Europe in years past the traditional patterns of tattoos gave way to the colorful and intricately made blouses with their front and back panels representing the traditional tattoo symbolism. 


Passing ulus will come to your boat with mola panels and blouses for sale, as well as colorful anklets and bracelets known as winnis. Molas make beautiful quilts, bags, and pillows, or even just framed on the wall. I love them and have bought enough on this trip and the last to sink the boat!




While pulling up anchor to make way back out to the offshore islands a passing ulu came by with more edible treasure......Bananas!!!