Dominica

11/18/2010

Known as the Natural Island of the Caribbean for its unspoiled hiking trails, numerous rivers, and lack of tourists, Portsmouth on the island of Dominica was our next stop. 

Dominica, a former pawn in the many struggles for colonization between Britain and France, finally became an independent republic within the Commonwealth of Britain in 1978. Still struggling with a turbulent government and a lean economy, Dominica is the least developed of all the Caribbean islands we have been to so far. 

The crew was treated to another picturesque, post drizzle rainbow, and immediately set upon by the numerous boat boys awaiting the arrival of yachts. Some were in brightly painted pangas offering everything from river tours and customs assistance to taxi rides ashore.

Others paddled out on boards precariously loaded with crates of fresh oranges, grapefruits and coconuts, willing to haggle and make a deal. The Garden of Eden and Plenty, for our entire stay we never lacked for fresh squeezed citrus to mix with our rum! Ashore Laurie the Juice Lady supplied orange, grapefruit, banana, tamarind, and other various juices hand squeezed, bottled and ready to go!

The town of Portsmouth consists of one main street along the shore, bisected by the Indian River and still decorated with numerous wrecks left by Hurricane David in 1979. 

 Boasting a thriving local market with an excellent roti shop, cheap beer, and friendly locals, a guided tour up the Indian River is the mainstay of tourism. 

We hooked up with Albert, a guide, taxi, and licensed member of PAYS, the Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security. 

In an attempt to dispel the reputation of security issues for boats, the local businesses and river guides created this association and provide regular nightly patrols throughout the anchorage.

The Indian River is a winding trip through swampy, vine-encrusted bamboo and huge blood wood trees. Shallow and bordered by the gigantic roots of the blood wood trees, the overhanging canopy allows in little light and the trip is eerily quiet as no motorized boats are allowed, each guide hand rowing the entire way. 

This river is one of the locations used in the movie Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest, the swamp witch scenes with all the creepy trees and hanging vines. Our guide Albert has been providing tours for twenty-six years and was very knowledgeable on local flora and fauna.

We spotted a few herons and crabs on our way up to the “Jungle Bar” for our requisite rum punch stop.  I had to checkout the bowls and bracelets being carved by this local craftsman, to haggle and negotiate a good deal. 

Little did he know I would have given him $100EC for the striking pearl and nut carved necklace he was wearing!

After a week the Starship meandered down the spectacular coast, south to Roseau. 

A slow sail in the lee of the island we tried to hug the coast so as to spy the many waterfalls this island is known for. 

Looking for a weather window to Martinique, only one night was spent in Roseau, a small cruise ship port with a bustling market scene. 

Don loves to buy from the little ladies on the street. Coconuts, bananas, nutmeg, ginger....

A dusty, dry day demanded a dip in the hotel pool in front of our boat. We didn’t have bathing suits with us, but the bartender didn’t mind as long as there was money for beer!